Rear Door Lock

I scored three sets of Bargman L-66 door locks for $100 at a small RV shop. They are used but in perfect condition. One is a complete set, the other two have a few parts missing.

I was able to make another working set out the the two minus the interior locking mechanism and a hold down bracket but I was able to replicate both out of some metal I had. I'll try to get some pictures of that later.

The set that was missing pieces had a set of keys with it but they dont work so I'll have to get a new tumbler set for it. I installed it on the back door so the complete working set with keys can go on the front door.

The measurements for the rough opening are 7" x 2 1/4". I used a scrap piece of acrylic as a template and used it to make the mark on the door.

I cut it out with a jigsaw then installed the lock.

It's going to need a lot of adjusting to work perfectly.

Other front side window

This window went in MUCH easier! Turns out I cut the other window 1/8" too big which is what made it so hard to get in. I may take the other window out, trim it down and reinstall it.

We installed this window in about 45 minutes compared to about 4 hours for the other one.

I'm holding off on installing the center window until I get the couch in. The center window is 26" tall, the doorway is only 24" wide so getting it in through the window is my best bet.

Front Windows

I installed one of the front side windows today. Let me tell you it was the biggest pain in the ass!! It took hours to get it installed.

NOT looking forward to doing the other ones.

I also installed the 7-way trailer plug.

Tomorrow I'll work on the other front side window.

Tail Lights

I got the tail lights installed yesterday.

One thing I want to mention that is very important. Be VERY careful how tight you install the screws for the trim piece and what you use to install them with. I used my little Ridgid impact to install the screws, the combination of the impact and torquing the screw down too much caused the lens to shatter. At $75 a piece for originals that's a very costly mistake.

I also began working on installing the front wrap around windows. I clamped the piece of lexan directly to the camper and traced out the window shape on to it. Then I cut along the line with my jig saw,  then I used a scribe set at 1/8" to make a new mark because the gasket takes up that much all the way around. Then I cut along the new line. I intalled the gasket in the window opening to get the proper length for it.

I will install the window today when I have a second set of hands for help.

Trailer lights

Yesterday I worked on the trailer lights, they were in really bad shape but I have both original tail lights and three out of the four original KD-540 running lights.

As you can see the bases are completely rusted out. There are reproduction bases for the KD-540 but I cant afford them right now so I decided to make my own.

First I had to find some light sockets that would work, I got these for $2 each.

Then I traced the pattern from the trim piece.

Then I put the cutout up to the side of the camper to locate the holes I needed to drill into it.

Then I rivited the bulb socket to the cutout.

Not as elegant as the reproductions but it works.

Next I screwed the new bases to the camper using stainless screws then attached the lenses.

Once I find some flathead stainless screws I will replace the phillips head ones.

I ran all new trailer wiring to all the lights. I didn't get a chance to finish installing the Bargman no. 2 tail lights but I did get them and the new center license plate stop light wired up.

I also finished up on the tongue. First I sanded it down with a wire wheel.

Then I sprayed it with a rust inhibiting sandable primer.

Then I sprayed it with a high strength enamel gloss black paint.

New Trailer Coupler

The original trailer jack was in bad shape and missing the crank. I decided to go ahead and replace the jack and the coupler.

First I removed the propane rack, the bolts were frozen solid so I cut them off. Then I cut the rivits off that hold the jack on. I had to free up the jack to remove it because the jack has to come out the bottom.

I was able to remove the eight bolts holding the coupler on.

and then remove the coupler.

The new coupler did not have any holes so I had to set it in place and trace the holes out from the inside. Then I drilled the holes into the coupler and installed it and the jack.

Tomorrow I will take the coupler back off, sand the tongue down with a wire wheel, then Primer it with a rust inhibitor, and then paint it.

Bolting Down the Shell

I spent the day bolting the shell down to the floor and frame.

I used 1/4"x2" carriage bolts with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut.

I have a few that were in awkward places that I still have to tighten by hand. I also need to finish bolting the floor to the frame.

Rear Taillight

I got some new stainless bolts and test fitted the new license plate bracket/stoplight.

I'm hoping to get a lot of work done on the camper this weekend.

Sub-floor is in!

I finished installing the sub-floor today.

The front section of sub-floor proved to be quite challenging. The original sub-floor was very rotted and came out in pieces.

I was able to put half of the front back together for a template to trace out the curve.

I traced the curve on to some kraft paper then cut the paper and used it to trace the curve on the plywood.

The piece fit perfectly.

Each section is held in place with two bolts so I need to go back and install the rest of the bolts and then install the bolts that hold the shell to the floor.

Sub-floor work continues

Here are some more pictures of the sub-floor going down.

It's about half way done now. Hopefully I can get it finished by this weekend.

Starting on the sub-floor

This weekend I began replacing the sub-floor. There are some pretty large areas of rot so I decided to replace the entire thing.

I started in the back.

First I located all the bolts holding the shell down to the sub-floor and cut them out with a sawzall. Then I had to remove the two corner aluminum wraps on the outside back of the camper to allow the shell to be lifted off the sub-floor.

Then I got under the camper and used the sawzall to cut the bolts holding the subfloor to the frame.

I sprayed the frame with a rubberized rust inhibitor undercoating.

I used the old piece of sub-floor as a template to cut the new piece, then I primered the bottom of it and installed it. I'm having to use carriage bolts because I couldn't find any elevator bolts.

The next piece of sub-floor I removed is 10' long and runs front to back. I'm going to have to figure out a different layout since I dont have any 10' plywood.

Removing this piece was much harder, I ended up setting my circular saw to 3/4" depth and cutting the piece out in chunks.

This is as far as I have gotten. Hopefully I can get some more done later today.